Dereszla – Tokaji Aszú 5 puttonyos 2013

sortni sastav: furmint

prosečna cena: oko 3 400 din.

Za nijansu-dve zatvorenije od boje zlata. Tromo u čaši. Prosto u ruci osećaš tu viskoznost, tu otežalost tečnosti koja se njiše i sporo silazi niz njene zidove.

Moćan miris. Pun, sladak. Sasvim očekivano za tokajce, blago oksidativan.

Doziva u sećanje pomalo zaboravljeno slatko od dunja, krupno rendanih. I neki med, i kompot od trešanja. I sasvim diskretno belo livadsko cveće.

Toliko slatkog, a nigde otužnosti. Nigde banalnosti, nigde zamora. Jer, snažna je − već na mirisu −  armatura ovih kiselina, koja bez problema na svojim ramenima nosi čitav kompleks nabrojanih masivnih aroma.

U ustima još glasniji odjek svežine, koja se razliva po jeziku i nepcima. Savršen, čini mi se, balans šećera i kiselina. Demonstracija moći razbuđujuće živahnosti, majstorski izvedene. Za ovoliko šećera, gotovo nestvarne.

Završnica duga. Nudi kremoznost i dugotrajan ukus rasečenih pa malo odstojalih dunja.

Vrcavo, snažno, moćno, atraktivno. Sočno i živahno.

Zaista sjajno vino.

Što se tiče sljubljivanja  jednog ovakvog vina sa hranom, ideje, naravno, prvo hrle u susret nekim slatkišima. Sledeći taj trag – nazvao bih ga klasičnim i očekivanim – svakako bih krenuo u susret kremastim senzacijama poput princes krofni kojima bih dodao malo limunovog soka, ili pite sa bogatim nadevom od jabuka.

Što se sireva tiče, bez ikakve sumnje – neka blaža gorgonzola (dolce), čije bi se gorčina i kremasta struktura odlično sjedinile sa slatkim tokajcem.

Ipak, korak napred – u nešto kreativnijem smeru – bilo bi uparivanje sa mesom.

Dalje koračanje tom stazom vodilo me je do smele slano-slatke kombinacije. Recimo, do nekakve mlade prasetine, u koju smo utrljali med i malo senfa, prekrili je kriškama dunja i ispekli u rerni.

Mlado praseće meso “rezano” dobrim kiselinama, a med, senf i dunje sjedinjeni sa bogatim sortamentom aroma ovog vina sa severa Mađarske…

Spektakl za nepca u najavi!

Prijatno!

Just a shade or two darker than golden color. Sluggish in the glass. You can simply feel Its viscosity in the hand, the weight of liquid that swings and slowly runs down the side of a glass.

A powerful fragrance. Lush, sweet. Totally expectable feature of Tokaji wine,  with mild oxidative tone. It brings to memories somewhat forgotten quince preserves, coarsely grated. Also, some honey and cherry compote as well as discreet hints of white meadow flowers.

So much sweetness, yet no insipidity. No banality, no fatigue. Because the structure of acidity – already detectable on the nose – is strong, so it supports well on its shoulders an entire plethora of the above mentioned aromas.

In the mouth, even louder echo of freshness, resonating along the tongue and on the palate. The balance of sweetness and acidity is seemingly brought to perfection. Demonstrated power of arousing vividness, a masterwork. For this much sugar, almost surreal.

A long finish. It offers creaminess and persistent mouthfeel of sliced quince left to rest for a while.

Vivid, powerful, lush, appealing. Savory and lively.

Truly a great wine.

Concerning an adequate food match for this wine, my first thoughts go towards some sweets. Following this trail – and I would call it classical and expectable – I would certainly head for creamy delights such as Cream Puffs, with my addition of some lemon juice, or a Pie with rich apple filling.

As far as cheese is concerned, undoubtedly – a milder version of gorgonzola (dolce) whose bitterness and creamy structure would perfectly unite with sweet Tokaji.

However, a step ahead – letting ahead one’s creativity – would be pairing with meat. Further walk along this path has brought me to a daring sweet-salty combination. Let’s say, a suckling pig coated with mustard and honey, covered with slices of quince and baked in the oven.

Young pork “carved” with fine acidity, whilst honey, mustard and quince merged with lush aroma profile of this wine originating from the north of Hungary…

Promising outlook for spectacle on the palate!

Bon Appétit!